Spotlight
Taking time out from the busy kitchen in Richmond, four chefs from William Curley went to visit Amedei in Tuscany...
On arrival in Pisa we headed to Pontedera, where Amedei are based, through the beautiful Tuscan countryside, passing sunflower fields on our way. We were met by the sight of painted cocoa pods decorating the walls of the red-brick factory.
For the next two or three hours we tasted a variety of chocolate and talked about how to explain them to our customers. Their Grand Cru (single origin) chocolate included Caribbean and Madagascan varieties. Each bar contains 70% cocoa so the difference you taste is purely the origin of the beans. With each one offering something very different, we all had our favourites. We learnt a lot about the various cocoa pods, such as the rare criollo that makes the famous Porcelana.
We watched a film showing the cocoa plantations from around the world where Amedei ethically source their beans; from Ecuador to Venezuela. Alessio Tessieri does all the sourcing of the beans for his sister Cecelia to taste. The cocoa production of Chuao in Venezuela, for example, of which the renowned chocolate takes its name, is overseen by a co-operative of its farmers, the Empresa Campesina.
The following day we kicked off with yet another chocolate tasting, including Amedei’s hot chocolate. Then we began our long-anticipated tour of the factory, tours are by invitation only so this was a rare opportunity to see inside. The whole factory is very well set out, telling the story from bean to bar, from the basement to the top of the factory.
We started off in the basement where all the roasting takes place. When the beans arrive in Pontedera, they have been fermented, dried and are ready to be roasted. We tried some whole roasted Madagascan beans which were very intense tasting and surprisingly delicious. We saw the winnowing machine that de-husks the cocoa beans and grades them into the size and quality of the cocoa nibs. Only the largest pieces of the nibs are allowed to make the amedei chocolate. The smaller nibs may contain traces of the husk inside so are discarded.
The nibs are then taken to a grinding machine or stone mill where they are ground, and with the natural heat that comes from grinding, the cocoa butter begins to liquefy and a rough paste comes out, this is cocoa mass or cocoa liqour. The cocoa liqour is then taken to the blending machine where the secret recipe is made. This is where vanilla and sugar are added for dark chocolate. Next the chocolate goes into a refining machine where the chocolate is refined between steel rollers to make the chocolate smooth and silky. Lastly the chocolate goes into the conching machine where for 72 hours the chocolate is refined more and the flavour becomes round and bitter notes are softened.
There is a thorough testing procedure at every processing stage, as each batch of cocoa beans are considered case by case. When the bars are finally set they are left for up to two weeks to rest before the final tasting, to allow all the flavours to fully develop. It was very apparent how much care and effort goes in to every single stage of production. At the end of the tour we spent some time with Cecila who answered some of our more practical and in-depth questions
Working with chocolate every day, it was a dream come true to see where it is made. It was a real privilege to see Alessio and Cecilia in their own environment as they are undoubtedly the best in their field. Visiting the Amedei chocolate factory is so exciting, and it was such a rare treat to be given a tour of the most prestigious of its kind in the world.
Written collectively by Lucie, Mijung, Sarah and Vicki.
For more information about Amedei visit www.amedei.com
What The Papers Says…
The London Restaurant Festival
The Handbook – August 2009
Visit: www.thehandbook.co.uk to read the full review
How to plan a dessert menu
Caterer Search – August 2009
Visit: www.caterersearch.com to read the full review
How to succeed as a chocolatier
The Evening Standard – 24th August 2009
Visit: www.thisislondon.co.uk to read the full review
Chocolate cookies
Ingredients
300gms Flour
2gms Baking powder
90gms Roasted hazelnut (roughly chopped)
100gms Caster sugar
200gms Unsalted butter (softened)
100gms Icing sugar
100gms Whole eggs
1.5gms Salt
200gms 65% Dark chocolate (chopped)
¼ pod Vanilla
Method
1. Sieve flour, baking powder and salt together..
2. Chop the hazelnuts roughly, mix with 100gms of caster sugar.
3. Roughly chop the chocolate.
4. Lightly cream the butter, icing sugar and vanilla seeds.
5. Gradually add the eggs until fully incorporated.
6. Fold in the flour, baking powder and salt.
7. Mix in the chopped hazelnuts, caster sugar and chocolate.
8. Spoon onto a non-stick oven tray. Around 3cm round,
with about 3cm gap between each biscuit.
9. Bake at 180°C for 15-20minutes.
10. Allow to cool.
